CrÍve Coeur Gulley (unfinished)

The Gulley is on the western side of the headland with an undercut juggy buttress (high) with a slab on it's right. Climbing is generally possible at all times apart from high tide in rough conditions when the rocks get covered in spray. Toproping is advised due to the height and uneven landing. Some problems are marked with arrows. From left to right problems are as follows:-

Left groove- 4c/5a- follow the vague lefthand groove on the buttress

The Wall - 4c/5a - climb the centre of the buttress

Right groove- 4c/5a - follow the juggy groove 4ft to the right

The Corner- 5a/b - climb the corner at the left hand end of the steep slab

The Slab - 4b/c - climb the slab

The slab gets easy then you come to a short corner

Small Corner - 4c - climb the short corner

Short wall - 5a - the righthand wall of the corner only

The arete - 6b+ - the arete to the right (project)

Short wall - 6b+ - the wall right of the arete (project)

The Traverse - 5a - start at either end, traverse low enough to step off and don't touch the ground

Opposite there is a small buttress above a platform with green rockpool. At the lefthand end is a 'scoop/wave' feature about 15ft high with a horizontal handcrack at half height.

The lunge - 5b - climb the scoop direct without using the handcrack. Easier for the tall.

Pool route - 4c/5a - climb direct above the pool (watch out for the wobbly jug)

The Pumper - 5a - traverse in either direction with hands no higher than the horizontal crack

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©Mark Page 2001