New Routes (13/12/01)

13/12/01 This is where I will post details of new routes and re-gradings / changes to existing routes. There are many more that aren't in the guidebook, but I don't have all the information to hand.  If you've done any then email the details to [email protected]  This page will take the same order as the Guidebook, i.e.. west to east.  Routes at existing crags will not have any access descriptions, you'll have to refer to the guidebook. Some of these new routes may have been done previously by other parties unbeknown to me, apologies if this is the case.

 

MARTELLO WALL

There is no longer a wire jammed in 'Son of Snitter', and there is often Rifle shooting on Saturdays at the range above preventing access.

FORT PEMBROKE

Plecko E1 5a

Start down and L of 'Greased Whippet' among the boulders and climb direct through a small ledge to finish up a small groove (crux)

F.A. 1996 Mark Page solo

No Ming For Tim HS 4c

Start at the bottom of 'The Last Gasp' and climb direct through triangular scoops.

F.A. 1996 Mark Page solo

Paul G's climb E1 5b?

climb the OHing wall R of Lunar Antics using a groove/corner

F.A. 1998 Paul Gaudion & Carl Armitage

APPRENTICE SLAB

Greased Knobs 60ft S

Climb up the black corner at the LH end of the cliff and through the capping OH.  If it's hot and sweaty avoid the OH on the right like I did! The grade is for my ascent, the direct is probably HS/VS.

F.A. summer 2001 Mark Page & John Addy

PLEINMONT POINT

Crime Wave has had something fall off above the niche.

The Coupee joining the crag to the land has lost about 2m of width due to rockfall in winnter 2000/1, please be careful and keep to the seaward side.

SMALL WALL

Pure Genius 50ft E2 5b/c

Climb the bulge L of Rib and Slab finish direct. 

F.A. Paul Gaudion, James Panton, Steve Giles

The Chimney is E1 5a/b if you don't use the LH wall at all.

BICYCLE WALL

There is some climbable rock on the LH side of the gully E of the wall. Abseiling off or scrambling down is highly recommended. Scrambling up the ridge is suicidal!

Sac of Wrath 60ft HS 4c unrepeated

Follow a wandering line up the arete starting on the right. poor.

F.A. Mark Page & James Panton 3/11/96

A harder line has been climbed up the corner/crackline to the R but the gear is poor. Unrepeated.

F.A. James Panton & Paul Gaudion 3/11/96

HANOIS CLIFF

Retch

suggest regrade from S to HS

Zebedee 60ft VS 5a **

Start as for 'Dying Spark' but follow the handcrack leftwards to finish as for 'Retch' on the LH side of the corner. May be much harder if you're short.

F.A. Mark Page & James Panton 3/11/96

Piper

appears to have had something big fall off a while back, unclimbed since but probably around E2 5a/b?

EXCALIBUR BUTTRESS 

The abseil stakes were backed up May 2001

Martin Crocker has climbed 2 lines either side of 'Excalibur' in the E5 range in 2000/2001.  They may have been climbed with Pitons (removed). The one on the OHing RH wall is reputed to be excellent.

Icarus

Steve Giles snapped a hold off this about half way up in 1999. Probably still E1 though.

GULL CLIFF

Munchkin Madness 80ft HVS 4b Unrepeated

Climbs the slab at the LH end of the upper tier.  Climb over shattered rock then follow a small LW facing corner to finish left of the RH arete.  Poor rock and bad gear. 

F.A. Mark Page, Carl Armitage and Stephen Mauger 1999 

GULL ZAWN

Vermicious Knid 35ft VS 4b Unrepeated

Climb the slabby side of the arete between 'Mad Dog Rides Again' and 'Dodo'

F.A. Mark Page & Simon Leightley 2000

A chunk has fallen off the bottom of 'Corridors of Power' since autumn 2000, but I doubt the grade has changed.  I think the guidebook descriptions for this route and 'After the Goldrush' are from when they were first climbed before 'Mad dog Corner' fell down and raised the floor of the Zawn.  'After The Goldrush' is best started direct from below the slopey ledge if you can reach from stood on the boulder, and the start to 'Corridors of power' doesn't look 6a (although I haven't climbed it).

There is an E5 taking the arete L of 'Nemesis', stick clip the tat, pull up your own rope then off you go.  F.A. 1999?

I think the top bit of 'Space Invader' may have fallen off with 'Mad dog corner'.  I might be wrong though!

There is another line breaking R from 'The Black Hole' I think.  I also pulled a hold off the top groove of 'The Black hole' in August 98 and couldn't do the moves, so that needs an ascent to re-grade it.  Definitely worth a star or 2 up till that point.

A chunk has come of the bottom of Breathless since 98, but it's still HVS 5a.

MONT HERAULT

There has been a big rockfall in the back of the gully between 'Agrippa', 'Fishmarket' etc. and 'Prolapse' sometime since autumn 2000.  As far as I can tell only 'Health Hazard' and 'Krakatoa' have been affected, with the lower half of both routes being destroyed. Avoid the area for a couple of years.  There is also clay pigeon shooting above the cliffs on most saturdays, so don't climb here then.

BARREL BUTTRESS (LES TIELLES)

Evening Orificer 60ft S

Goes up between 'One for the Road' and 'Dangerous Driving' Can't remember the description!

F.A. Mark Page & Carl Armitage 29/3/97

BOULDER WALL

The Slab between 'Brisket' and 'Slab Left Hand' has a couple of lines climbed on 21/12/96 by Mark Page and Paul gaudion and others. The twin R to L trending cracks are 'Gear Frenzy' and the seeping corner to the R is another, both around VD and good for training. There is an easy descent down the groove/gulley/ramp below 'Slab Left Hand' etc.

RED CRAG (LA CORBIERE)

There was a big Landslide below the descent path on the scree slope into Sunset Bay in winter 2000. A path has been cut following the rocky ridge to the right, but it is probably overgrown now.

Gary Bit Tits 100ft HS 4b *

Climb the corner L of 'Negress', then over the LH wall and up to the top of the slab finishing as for 'Boomerang'

F.A. Mark Page & Christopher Harvey 1/9/96

MAIN CLIFF (LE BIGARD)

The Peg on '9-9-9' may have disappeared 1999

SUNSET SLAB (LE GOUFFRE)

Wet 50ft HS 4b *

Traverse under the overhang from L to R finishing up the RH side of the Corner

F.A. Steve Giles and Sam Woolcombe 29/4/2001

LE BETTE BAY

The bottom of the path down to this bay has had a landslide in early 2001, but you could still get down with a bit of bumsliding!

DOG BUTTRESS

Between Festivities  85ft HVS 5a

Climb one side of Raven Mad or the other, I can't remember which!

F.A. Paul Gaudion & Carl Armitage 28/12/96

ORANGE WALL (MOULIN HUET)

'Ou Est Le Papier' Should really have a lower off peg or 2 before someone falls off trying to get to the tree! The climb is great, but the 50ft of vertical dirt to get to the belay tree is death!

 

If you're interested in climbing in Guernsey,

then give Mark a ring on +44 (0)1481 701666 or email him

(c) Mark Page 2001